Tennessee (Cookeville / Burgess Falls / Rock Island / Cummins Falls State Park)
Trip Summary
One of the amazing things about Tennessee is that it is full of waterfalls, hiking trails, and fun places to explore. Cookeville and the area surrounding it is one of the jackpot places in the state because of all there is to see and do, and none of it disappoints! My husband and I have actually returned here several times to hike, and even with all the hiking we do, it is one of our favorite places!
Let’s start with the star of the show–Cummins Falls State Park. This major waterfall (that you can actually hike to from the river) is gorgeous, not only because of its size, but because you can swim out to it and even enjoy the multiple “levels” of waterfalls. All the pictures we had seen featured people picnicking on the rocks, enjoying the water, and swimming in the pool below, and it seemed like the perfect place to explore. So one year for my birthday, we planned on visiting, but it was in 2020, and the entire park was closed due to COVID. So we tried again the following year when it had reopened, and it was worth the wait! So much that we’ve gone back to hike again!
Due to its popularity, you do have to purchase a permit before visiting, and there is only a certain number of those available (so book early once you know when you want to visit)! The attendants are strict about checking it, so after we showed them our permit, we began our descent down the trail. There is a short overlook trail where you can see the falls from above, but the better trail goes down to the river and then you spend the next bit following the river upstream (to then see the falls up close as you are at the base and can actually swim out to it). This makes it a very unique hike as you have to cross the river a few times (it is shallow and only came up to our waist at the deepest in the summer–most of the time, it was to our knees), but the area is so pretty all throughout.
Armed with our water shoes (highly recommended), we set off for the base and had a wonderful time. There are also several rangers stationed at the base of the waterfalls (with walkie talkies that they can easily radio in if someone falls or needs help). We actually saw some of the rescue trails (not open to the public) where those who were injured could be taken back up, but even though they have these measures in place, let this be a warning to be very careful when climbing/swimming around the falls! Before you can see the falls, you have to do a bit of rock scrambling and this requires the use of your hands for balance (so keep those hands free). The falls themselves are also very slippery as you climb from one level to the next, and we saw people fall often. One of the rangers was telling us how often people hurt themselves, so know your limits and don’t be too risky, because it didn’t look like a fun time if you had to be rescued and carried out!
The reason I mention this is because my husband and I were shocked at the number of people who ignored any of the safety recommendations and climbed the boulders carrying large loads in their hands (we even saw some people carrying infants/toddlers–not even in a carrier, but just cradled in their arms) while climbing, and this got me so nervous for them, because all it would take was one stumble for someone to fall and seriously hurt themselves/the baby they were carrying. So be careful, make good choices, and you should avoid injury!
All that aside, we loved this place, and my husband spent all sorts of time swimming, jumping, diving, and being his Tarzan-like self at the falls! During the whole hike back, we talked about how beautiful it was and when we could come back! So make this a must-see on your itinerary! Such a beautiful place!
Cummins Falls Base Route: A+
Another popular place that we visited on a separate occasion was Twin Falls at Rock Island State Park. This state park is a little farther away as it is located a bit more south past Sparta, but it is worth the extra time to see it! I had seen pictures of this beautiful waterfall and when my husband and I were on a road trip across the state, we decided to make this one of our pitstops. We also had our dogs with us, and one of them is aging a bit, so we needed a shorter trail, and this fit the bill!
The falls are impressive as they are tall, the water plentiful, and there are lots of places to take pictures. The trail is also very short and easy (you can actually see the falls a very short distance from the parking lot) which makes this a good trail for all ages. You can also walk up and down the river and enjoy the views a bit.
So, not as grand and unique as Cummins Falls, but still a worthy visit–and one that is easy to see!
Twin Falls and Downstream Trail: A-
There is one more trail I’ll tell you about, and that one is Burgess Falls! This waterfall is closer to Cookeville and is a unique one, because you can see it several ways–by hiking to it or by kayaking to it! People kayak right to the base, and the pictures and videos from those who do just look incredible, so if you have time, definitely consider that! Unfortunately, we had limited time when we were visiting (and the hike to Burgess Falls was actually an impromptu decision as we were waiting for Cummins Falls to open), so we just hiked to it, and it’s a relatively short trail.
The outlook at the top is gorgeous and is at an angle that allows for excellent pictures. The water is always very plentiful, so even if you go on a day in which there hasn’t been much rain, you can expect a raging waterfall that is every bit as impressive as the pictures! Highly recommend!
Burgess Falls Trail: A
You will notice that I don’t have hotels and restaurants reviewed here, and that is because these hikes were always stops on a bigger trip rather than a full stay. However, I know that there are lots of camping opportunities in the area, so definitely check out those! There are more trails in the area, too–ones that I will go back and complete eventually and include here! These include Window Cliffs and Virgin Falls among others, so stay tuned!
Favorite Experiences
After such a long wait, Cummins Falls is still probably my favorite out of all the hikes we’ve done in the area, though all these hikes were lovely in their own right! My husband and I loved the uniqueness of a river hike and the ability to actually swim out to the falls and climb around, so that one would be a standout for those reasons. Who knows, though, I may find more favorites down the road as I come back!
What I Wish I Knew
Having researched what I needed to do for permits, there wasn’t a whole lot I would do differently, however, I do think kayaking to Burgess Falls would have been a lot of fun! I may still do that eventually, so that is probably the one thing I “wish I knew” beforehand. That and I wish I had more time as there are so many good hiking spots in the area! Definitely check it out!
I also post reels and TikToks regularly of all the places I’ve reviewed on here, so if you want to see some videos of what to expect, check out my social media here:
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