Alaska (Juneau)
Trip Summary
Juneau was our fourth stop (and second land port) on our summer one-way Alaska itinerary on the Island Princess. I think I was also most excited about this port, because my husband and I had booked our biggest excursion there–the Mendenhall Glacier Paddle and Trek with Alaska Shore Tours.
My husband and I were initially torn about what to do in Juneau. Whale watching is very popular at this port, but so is seeing the Mendenhall Glacier, and this glacier is big enough that you could even land helicopters on it, go ice-climbing on it, or just see it from afar from the visitor’s center. We opted for ice-climbing and picked the Mendenhall Glacier and Paddle Trek because it had good reviews, seemed challenging and adventurous, and was one of the only tours to advertise the ice caves in the glacier. The pictures of the ice caves looked gorgeous–massive blue caverns that seemed just otherworldly.
The tour met near the cruise dock early in the morning, so after bidding my husband’s parents goodbye for the day (they had a different excursion planned), we met the bus that would take us to the tour office. There, we gathered up our gear (we put on our waterproof outerwear and each got a backpack full of climbing equipment) and got assigned into groups. After being in what I felt were very large groups in Skagway’s tour, I was relieved to see that these groups were much smaller–we only had eight people including the guide in each group.
After completing all of our safety checks, we immediately set off to get our canoe and carry it to the edge of Mendenhall Lake. Then we set to work paddling toward the glacier at the other side. The tour’s description explains that the paddle is rigorous and tells participants that they should be willing to paddle five miles and sit in a canoe for up to three hours, and this is an accurate description–the glacier is a long way away, and you are also battling a headwind.
My husband and I were prepared for the paddle, and it seemed that one of the other couples in the boat were, too, and we paddled with rigor, digging deep into the water and rowing fast. But imagine our shock when the entire family up front just sat there, paddles on the floor of the boat, hands in their laps. The guide even asked them to help, and they nodded, then completely ignored him, never touching the paddles for the hour and a half paddle across the lake.
The rest of the passengers (including us) were pretty steamed by the time we got to the foot of the glacier, but I was determined that we would still have fun on this tour–if anything, we were getting more exercise than we anticipated. And the glacier up close was gorgeous. So much more impressive than the Davidson Glacier we had seen the day before, and this one had so many tinges of blue that made it seem extra magnificent.
One of the passengers asked where the ice caves were, and the guide said they were long gone. Gone months ago, he said, and I tried to hide my disappointment as the realization sank in. No ice caves at all. We had booked the tour because of the ice caves and had even asked about them before booking, so that was a major letdown. We knew that ice caves were always changing due to the weather, but if there was no chance of seeing an ice caves in a certain month, I felt that should have been disclosed, especially when we specifically asked about them.
But ice caves aside, there was still plenty to see!
There were two hiking groups on the glacier at this point–ours and one other one, so we put on our climbing gear and crampons and went our separate ways as we began our trek. At times during the hike, the guide would show us how to use our crampons and how to lean against our climbing equipment.
There is a bit of rock and gravel to cross before you actually get to the ice, but once you step on the ice, the experience become completely surreal, because you almost feel like you are on another planet.
The crunch of the ice against the crampons, the feeling of the cold breeze, and the sight of a white/blue world all around you is completely amazing, and the tour group often stopped to just look around and take it all in. It was breathtaking.
Better yet were the deep blue gorges and rivers we came across as we trekked across the ice.
Every time you crossed an ice mountain, a more impressive mountain came into view, and if you looked up the glacier, an entire world of ice ridges and peaks and valleys spread as far as you could see.
At times, I could see the other tour group far ahead on the glacier and thought we would catch up to them at some point, but the family in our tour group that didn’t paddle on the boat seemed disinterested in the glacier and was unwilling to trek much further. This caused our guide to alter our route, and this was another frustration for the rest of the group as the rest of us were invested in the glacier and wanted to see as much of it as we could.
The sections of the glacier we did see were mesmerizing, and when the guide said we had to start turning back so that we would have time to paddle back, we were sad to leave the glacier behind.
The paddle back was harder as it had started to rain, and we were paddling against the current this time. And still the family refused to touch their paddles. We were all tired at this point and the other couple with us even started dramatically groaning and grunting every time they paddled their oars to show how strenuous the paddle was (and how much we all needed their help), but the family just ignored it. The dramatic show was funny, though, and led to some smiles and giggles among those of us actually paddling, so the trek back wasn’t altogether terrible (though our arms were numb by the time we got back!).
By the time we got back to the shore, we saw that the other group had already made it back, and they happily greeted us and told us about all the things they had seen–the ice waterfalls, the indentations they found (little blue openings that had once been full caves), and the views from the top of the glacier. Unfortunately, we couldn’t see those things as those sights were much higher up the glacier than we had gone, but they sounded like beautiful sights.
So all in all, the tour was a good one. The guide took very careful measures for safety, paddled hard with us on the lake, and all the equipment we needed for the trek was provided. While some members of the group frustrated me and limited the tour considerably, I know I can’t fault the tour itself for that. The tour guides have the do their best with the group members they have, and they did.
However, I do feel that with the very high expense of the tour, there needs to be better communication (and more accurate advertising) about the ice caves. Some other reviewers who also ran into this problem suggested lowering the cost of the tour in non-ice cave months, and I can see that being a good idea. The equipment and the time spent on the glacier would all be the same, so I don’t know how open to the idea the company would be, but I know the those who purchase tickets to this tour would appreciate it.
Mendenhall Glacier Paddle and Trek: A-
By the time we got back to the cruise ship dock, we had a little bit of time before we had to be aboard, so we met up with one of my uncles who lives in Juneau. I don’t get to see him often because he lives so far away, so it was nice to catch up! There are also a lot of little eateries and sitting areas by the docking area, so if you have extra time before getting back on your ship, this is a fun area to explore.
Favorite Experiences
Actually hiking on the Mendenhall Glacier is an experience unlike any other. To be surrounded by white and blue ice and to hear the crunch of the ice under your crampons is an absolutely amazing experience. We also got some of our favorite pictures from on top of this glacier, and the landscape is so incredible that none of the pictures you take here would need editing–all the colors are already there without any filters.
I also liked that our guide looked for picturesque spots and pointed them out to us as we hiked. Various caverns, blue ponds, and valleys in the ice all made for excellent picture opportunities.
What I Wish I Knew
There are a few things I wish I knew for this port. For one, I wish I knew that the ice caves for be definitely non-existent when we went. That was the biggest thing we were looking forward to on this day, and while I knew that nature is unpredictable and ice caves can never be guaranteed, I wish that the tour company was more forthright about the fact that there are just no ice caves at all during certain months. The tour is very expensive, so accuracy about what you would see on the tour is very important.
Also, if you decide to book this tour yourself, read the description of the tour, please, for the sake of everyone else in your group. The tour’s website is very clear about the fact that participants have to be active and prepared to paddle for up to three hours. So be prepared to paddle and do your share of work–it’s an hour and a half paddle each way and that’s with everyone participating…even longer when a 1/3 of the boat’s participants won’t help.
We couldn’t have known that some members of our group would refuse to help paddle or see much of the glacier–we had all adults on the tour and everyone seemed fit. In hindsight, though, the people that didn’t want to participate did seem sullen and not interested in anything since the beginning, so I wish we noticed this more and asked to be put into the other group (that was loud and boisterous and full of jovial people giving each other high fives and jumping around in excitement at seeing the glacier). It’s hard to know these things, but if you go, don’t be afraid to observe and ask to be put with another tour group–these things are not set in stone and groups are usually put together as everyone is putting on their gear.
Also, if you go on this tour, be sure that you are not afraid of heights! Luckily, my husband and I are not bothered by heights, but the ice mountains you climb are pretty high, and you have to have a good sense of balance when climbing from place to place. It’s a long way down if you fall, so if heights make you nervous, this might not be the best tour for you.
Last, but not least, if you decide to tour around Juneau, there is some helpful information about the port here and a review page here. There is also a really cool walking map here.
All in all, though, it is a great port with a lot to do! Juneau definitely deserves to be on your to-visit list!
I also post reels and TikToks regularly of all the places I’ve reviewed on here, so if you want to see some videos of what to expect, check out my social media here:
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Happy travels!
