Iceland (Vik)
Trip Summary
Alrighty, are you ready for a whopper of a post? As you know, Iceland is FULL of things to see, so when my husband and I went during the summer to travel the Ring Road in 10 days, we knew we didn’t want to miss anything! So we jam-packed our days to the fullest, and this was one of the longest (but also one of the most impressive) days!
After camping in Selfoss (you can read more about camping and general tips for traveling in Iceland here), we got in our rental car and headed for the first destination of the day–Seljalandsfoss. This waterfall is one of the most famous and one of the most visible from the Ring Road as you can see the water plumes shifting in the wind as you approach! The parking lot is also easy to navigate (and you can pay for parking via a pay station), and the path toward the waterfall begins right from the lot and even goes behind the waterfall so that you can see it from all angles!
That was one of the things my husband liked most about this waterfall (I planned all the stops, so when we arrived at these places, it was the first time he had seen any of them), and the whole time we hiked around it, his mouth was open in awe, like did you know you could go behind this waterfall? It was funny, because I had seen pictures and scoured all the travel boards for the best places to see, so knowing this was all going to be brand new to him, I had fun seeing his reactions every time a new stop came in sight! They are all just so beautiful!
However, the most beautiful spots in Iceland are also often very wet–so even if it is a sunny day, wear waterproof outwear and hiking boots, because with the wind, you will likely get soaked with the spray coming off the waterfall. Even so, it is worth it to climb up to the waterfall’s base and then behind it and then around to the other side. There are several picture taking spots (you will likely have to wait to get a picture depending on how crowded it is), but definitely take your time because the pictures are worth it!
Seljalandsfoss: A
However, you can’t visit Seljalandsfoss and not visit the waterfall right next to it–Gljufrabui! This one is hidden behind a narrow path in a ravine, so it is not as visible as its neighbor, but it is just as–if not more–beautiful! It is only a short walk from Seljalandsfoss (the parking lot is also the same for both waterfalls) and there are signs as well, but I think I liked this waterfall a bit better than Seljalandsfoss just because of its hiddenness (it made it less crowded, too). The path toward is neat, because you don’t see the waterfall right away–you just hear it–and as you get closer, you can see the bottom, then when you finally get there, you look up and see the full glory!
There is also a large rock at the base that a lot of people use for posing for pictures, so if you want a picture without crowds, you may have to wait a bit–but just like the previous waterfall, it is worth it! The secret magic of this place really makes it stand out from the others–with its dark corridors (be sure to play with the light settings on your camera so that your pictures don’t turn out too dark!) to its wide, abundant streams down the side of a dark ravine, this place is truly magnificent!
However, magnificence comes with a price! You are likely to get very wet here as well–not just from the waterfall but from the path as it consists of stepping stones in the water. Depending on the water level, these stones may be visible or even submerged in the water, so wear waterproof hiking shoes (or watershoes!), and this will help you be able to navigate the path more confidently without worrying too much about wet shoes.
Yet, a lot of people don’t take that advice as we found out when a couple in front of us were absolutely terrified of getting in the water (even if you do miss a stepping stone, the water is only an inch or so deep–at least when we were there) and even though my husband moved to the side to let them pass (we were both wearing waterproof boots), the man insisted that we turn completely around–so much that he was screaming at us. We did just because he wouldn’t quit yelling, but my gosh, it really almost came to blows with just how crazed this guy was. Even the other tourists were staring at how big of a deal this guy was making, carrying on about how he needed to help his wife across the stones and that the path was unsafe….then lo and behold, the man had walked the whole path by himself that he left his wife behind completely and left her to fend for herself. My husband even pointed it out, much to the laughter and amusement of the surrounding tourists, and that’s when I thought oh, dear. But luckily, the guy found his mind, and we could start on the path again, but beware–people really act irrationally when out of their element and hiking/walking near water that they just seem to lose all reason, so give people a lot of space! The funny part is that we saw this same guy again at one of our campsites later on the Ring Road, and he was just as unhinged as he was before, so my husband made a joke of it whenever we saw him…whispering to me, our friend is here, our friend is back, oh, look, it’s our friend! It made for an adventurous trek, and now, if you mention tourists in Iceland, my husband will pop up and say, do I have a story for you!
All in all, though, it was a gorgeous waterfall, and one of our favorites from the day, so be sure to put it on your itinerary! It is a must see and totally worth the wet walk to get there!
Gljufrabui: A+
But would you believe me if I told you that the next waterfall is even more impressive? Skógafoss! THE icon of Iceland! If you have seen a picture of a waterfall in Iceland, it was probably Skógafoss, and that is because there is absolutely nothing like it! A massive, powerful waterfall that you can see from far away, it’s the probably one of the TOP spots you should put on your itinerary. Waterproof gear is necessary here, too, because while you can stay out of the stream near the bottom, the powerful plume from the water will drench you. But you know what I will say! It’s worth it!
Because this place is so iconic, a lot of pictures get taken here, and if you can plan ahead, go ahead and wear something brightly colored, because this will make you stand out among all the grey and black of the surroundings. I have seen people in either red or yellow coats, and those look so cool against the waterfall and its surroundings. A idea if you have one that is waterproof!
While the most popular spot is at the base of the waterfall, there is also a long staircase that goes to the top where you can get another vantage point to take pictures (though, honestly, the view here isn’t quite as good as at the base). It is also here that you can start the hike called “Waterfall Way.” And here is one of my biggest regrets of Iceland–we didn’t have time to hike this as it was a 10-mile round-trip trek, and we just had too much left to see. So we skipped it, but aghhhhh, I know we missed so much in skipping this trail, because I know that you see just one magical waterfall after the next on this path! So if you are fit and you have a few extra hours, definitely plan on doing this trail (in the summer)! If I ever have the chance to go back to Iceland in the summer, I would love to hike Waterfall Way, so let this be a sign for you to make some time to see it with no regrets!
However, believe it or not, this wasn’t my absolute favorite waterfall of Iceland, but it comes in tied for second place for me (first is Dettifoss and the second/tie is Selfoss–both in the north). But Skógafoss is every bit of an A+! Truly deserving of a top score!
Skógafoss: A+
With our waterfall portion of the day completed, we started the journey to our next stop–Reynisfjara Beach. This the black sand beach with the basalt columns and the infamous sneaker waves, and sure enough, there were big signs warning everyone of the waves’ power. The parking lot is also free to use and there is a small food truck there in the summer (but it was closed when we were there due to the weather).
The weather was cold and rainy when we went, so it cast a dark, moody atmosphere which was fitting for the place. You really do have to be careful about the waves, because they are very powerful and even though they don’t look like a lot sometimes, the undertow and current is nothing to mess around with as quite a number of tourists have died there. I could see why as people were foolishly wandering out into the water and ignoring the signs just to get a picture. Parents even let their toddlers wander freely in the waves’ path, and it just made me so uneasy as a tourist had died just days before we visited. So heed the warnings! They are there for a reason, and if you want to wander past the columns or go down the beach, just time out your visit so that you are there at low tide, and that will help, but don’t take unnecessary risks–the pictures are not worth it.
My husband and I stayed on the beach away from the waves–and it was actually less crowded here, and you could get better pictures without a ton of people in them. The crowds mostly gather by the columns and they are worth seeing–as are many of these formations in Iceland! So neat–just keep an eye on those waves!
So for its beauty, the rock formations, the black sand beach, and the ease of seeing it all (it was just a short walk from the parking lot), this place also gets a high grade.
Reynisfjara Beach: A
However, if you can believe it, our day was not over–actually far from it! The campsite we were looking forward to most was actually ahead! After reading all about the Remundargil Canyon and the campground at Þakgil, I knew that was going to be one of our favorite camping spots in Iceland–possibly even favorite camping spot ever–as it was nestled in a deep canyon toward the Highlands. There was a cave that you could have meals in and talk with fellow campers, it was small, private site (unlike the other campgrounds in the middle of a city or so massive that they just bustled at all hours of the night), and it was on a road that wasn’t an F-road–so we could get there in our small rental car.
However…the weather in Iceland has a mind of its own and can change in an instant, because as we were driving un into the Highlands, the gloomy rain turned into a downpour and the winds quickly picked up. Bad weather can pass as quickly as it comes, so we kept on, and the drive was a bit nerve-wracking getting up there, because the road is unpaved, the drop-offs on the side of the road are steep, and there were large mud puddles we had to skirt. Then the wind got stronger and stronger again–so much so that our car started to rock back and forth, and my husband and I just looked at each other, thinking–if the wind is doing this to our car, what is it going to do to our tent?
But Þakgil was just ahead, and oh, my goodness, even in the storm, it was every bit as gorgeous as I thought it would be! Such lush landscapes, towering mountains, and such a beautiful green clearing for tents for us to spend the night in absolute awe and amazement! It was honestly so beautiful that my husband and I just sat in the car and stared at it for a while–wanting so badly to camp there, but knowing it just wasn’t going to be possible. We even talked to the owner to see if one of the few bungalows were available (because that would be much more doable than a tent in this weather!), but sadly those had been booked up a long time ago. We even thought, well, what if we just spend the night in the car? It was a long drive back down toward Vik, and the weather was just getting worse. But our car was tiny (when you get the cheapest rental car, you end up with the smallest one available), and the wind was knocking us around so much that we knew that there just wouldn’t be any sleep. So we made the sad, SAD decision to turn around and leave Þakgil behind. It was heart-breaking!
So if you think you will visit Þakgil, go ahead and spring for the bungalow (and do this early as accommodations books months to even a year in advance), because you just never know what the weather is going to do in Iceland–even in the summer. Though, I know it would have been a magical night if the weather was better. It still gets high score, and I am still so sad that we couldn’t stay!
Þakgil: A+
So we started the long trek back down to Vik where we knew the winds wouldn’t be quite as bad, and luckily, there was a large campsite right in the city close to the Ring Road. They still had sites open for the night, so we wearily booked a spot, and mustered up all our energy to get up our tent and take a quick shower before bed. I liked this camping spot much better than the one in Selfoss, because the camp operator was a lot more honest and was helpful in explaining the coins for the showers and where we could park and set up camp. We had a spot that was surrounded by some hills that helped break some of the wind (but it still rained a whole 12 inches that night!), so as you can imagine, it made for very little sleep (especially when other desperate people came in at all hours of the night and started setting up camp), but hey, we had a spot, and we were clean, and that’s what mattered.
So for the nice camp operator, the number of spots available, the clean showers (however, they are open, and are not labeled according to the coin dispenser which makes for a very awkward naked walk as you try each shower to see which one your coins activated!), and the location, it gets a good score.
Vik Campsite: A-
Whew, and if you can believe it, we did all this and even stopped in town to buy my husband a jacket (since his poncho was just comically unfit for Iceland), so it was a day! I don’t have restaurants reviewed here because we were eating groceries we had bought in Selfoss, but there are a few options around town, but even so, I don’t know if we would have had the time or energy to sit down in a restaurant after everything we did today, ha!
Favorite Experiences
Man, that’s a really tough one, because we saw just so much on this day, but Skógafoss would probably have to take the top prize! Gljufrabui is probably a very close second, and if the weather was better and we could have stayed at Þakgil, that would have probably ranked on up there as well, but honestly, everything we saw was just incredible. Every day was just an affirmation that this country was just full of treasures (and deserved multiple visits!).
What I Wish I Knew
You know, you hear over and over how bad the weather can get in Iceland and how much you have to prepare, and honestly, we did for the most part, but when you pack up waterproof clothing, make sure it is WATERPROOF. Not water resistant or anything, because that is just not going to cut it. You are going to get drenched (I have an Instagram reel/TikTok video of just how ridiculous a poncho is in Iceland if you want to see proof!). So when my husband brought a water-resistant coat, he quickly realized that it wasn’t going to be enough, then he bought a poncho, and that turned out even worse, so I wish we bought something really heavy-duty beforehand. The prices in Iceland are pretty spendy (even after you get the VAT tax back–more on that in my Reykjavík post). So definitely make sure that your full outer layer (packet/pants, and boots) are ALL fully waterproof–because even if the weather is great, it can change on a dime, and the waterfalls are massive (and with such power comes a lot of spray!).
Bring way more socks than you think you might need, too, and when you are driving between sites, sit on a towel or better yet, take off your jacket/pull down your outer layer pants, and this way, your car seat won’t get wet. Last, but not least, dry out your shoes whenever you can–even if this means holding them in front of the air vent in your car, because even the waterproof ones will get wet inside from water running down your pants, and wet socks/shoes are not so fun after a few days! We noticed that everyone else was also having this problem when we got to the campsites, and the laundry room consisted of one washer and a room just slap-full of drying racks full of everything you could think of just hanging out to dry. Things will get wet in Iceland, and boy, do they ever! I had actually brought a plastic trash bag to keep all of our dirty/wet things separate in our suitcase, and by the time we were finished with the Ring Road, that bag was so heavy with wet things that I was so grateful that we had just taken carry-ons (so wouldn’t have to pay an overweight fee for checked luggage)! So stay dry, plan ahead, and have fun…because Iceland is absolutely everything and more!
I also post reels and TikToks regularly of all the places I’ve reviewed on here, so if you want to see some videos of what to expect, check out my social media here:
TikTok: @touristyteacher
Instagram: @touristyteacher
Facebook: @touristyteacher
Happy travels!
